I have never heard of the filter brand "LifeTech", and I searched it up over the internet, and I failed to find any results either. I assume that it is a cheaper imitation of a more well-known filter brand, and generally, imitations with no clear background information are unreliable. I saw in another post awhile back that someone was inetrested in a cheaper filter on eBay that also had no information, and was concluded it was a cheap imitation of an Eheim brand filter, but I forgot whether it was a LifeTech or not.
I'd be cautious of your brand of filter, they can be unsafe and even hazardous at times.
Turtle Stones, I am not sure of, but they are not necessary in my opinion, since not many people use them. JUst a good filter and regular water changes is fine.
From your picture, I can't figure out what that green net does, could you explain?
You should really refer to the Basic Care Section of this site, it has everything you need for a healthy turtle, but from what I see you should address is:
Well this isn't a necessity at this point, since baby turtles will do fine in a 10 Gallon tank. But baby turtles grow very fast, some as much as 4 inches their first year, and as stated on this site, for a comfortable turtle, 10 Gallons of water should be there for every inch of your turtle's shell length, so prepare for an upgrade for a happy turtle. It's best to buy as big as you can at first, so you don't need to waste money upgrading several times.
Now for lighting, it's recommended that you have both UVA and UVB lighting available for your turtle in its basking area. UVA is just for heat, a regular incandescent bulb is fine, but for UVB you need a specialty reptile light that emits good UVB. Often UVB bulbs state they also have UVA in them, but it is too small you really need a separate bulb for UVA. Unless you have an MVB bulb, it is more expensive and has a way higher wattage, but it gives off both sufficient UVA and UVB. I don't recommend a MVB for tanks smaller than 55 Gallons though, as MVB bulbs are very strong and can easily overheat the entire enclosure, basking area and water. Basking Area temperatures should be from 88-90.
If you have all of that lighting addressed, I noticed you have a screen cover over your tank. Most screen covers sold with tanks or at pet stores are very fine in mesh, and the holes in between are too small. Though at least some UVB is filtered through all screen covers, a hole length of at least 1/2 an inch is fine for UVB rays to travel into the basking area.
Now for water, you definetely need more water. As for the gravel sloping up into the basking area, I recommend against it. Turtles have been known to swallow gravel, and it cannot pass through their digestive tract, causing impaction. This has often led to a sick turtle, surgery, and even death. If you want to have some rocks in your tank, it's a good idea to have them larger than your turtle's head, so they can't fit the rocks in their mouths. A good replacement for the gravel basking area is to purchase or make your own basking area that floats on the water or is suctioned to the glass of your tank. Common basking areas are home made PVC pipe frames or Zoo-Med Turtle Docks.
RES are aquatic turtles, and they spend nearly off of their time in or under the water, they only surface to dry land to bask or lay eggs (for mature females), so there's no worry that your turtle doesn't know how to swim in deep water and would drown. They even sleep under the water. Only exception is if your filter is too strong (usually canister filters for hatchlings, is this LifeTech a canister filter by the way?) and creates a current in the water of your tank which sucks your turtle into it and your turtle can't escape, or the rare situation where your turtle is stuck in a tight space (turtles like to cram themselves into tight spaces), such as the bars on a turtle dock. Hatchlings also have the instinct to swim and dive from the time of their birth, so the water should be filled as high as your turtle can't escape over the top (turtles are crafty and strong, their two front legs can extend very far and can lift their entire body over).
Do you have a proper heater? RES turtles need warm controlled water conditions, they can also freeze if the water is too cold, like humans. Water temperature should be from 78-80 for hatchlings, and 75-78 for Adults.
Proper filtration is neccessary for your turtle, turtles dirty up their water very quickly, and can easily get sick if the water is not clean enough.
Hey hey hey.