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Hi guys,

Tonight I used my new API Freshwater Master Test Kit, and these are the numbers I got"

pH 7.7 I've read that between 7.0 and 8.0 is good, but idk
Ammonia 1.0ppm I'm told 0ppm but that's not really realistic, so what's an upper limit?
Nitrite 0.05ppm I'm told 0ppm but that's not really realistic, so what's an upper limit?
Nitrate 5.0ppm ljapa told me less than 20ppm

I searched but did not find one place where the recommended values should be.

So what is an acceptable range of values for them?

btw, I plan to log these values and see how much they change over time...

Todd

Your ph is fine. Mine varies from 7.6 to 8.2.

Actually, ammonia and nitrite of 0 are attainable. If I had to guess, I'd say your aquarium is still cycling. Three questions: how long has it been up and running? (Mine took nearly 2 months to fully cycle). What size aquarium and filter? What filter media?

The fact that you are reading nitrate is very good. It means you have both kinds of beneficial bacteria. That you have an ammonia reading of 1 either means the cycle is still going or your filter is undersized. There are other less likely possibilities, but the answers to those questions will help us determine.

Thanks for your help ljapa!

the tank is a 20gal it's been up and running for about 2 weeks, and "Thor" is all of about 2.5inches from front to back of shell.

the filter is a brand new MarineLand C220 canister filter with three elements. It's rated for 55gallons

the goofy goofy goofy thing is that a very light oily slick that forms on the top surface or the water. once a week or so I lay paper towels on the surface and that sucks up the slick. but I'd sure like to know what is causing it???

There was just another post about the oil slick. The bottom line on that is to get the water moving on top (move the filter outflow, by a fishy bubbler or whatever works for you).

As for the ammonia - 0 is achievable.
When a tank is first set up (or major water changes) it has to "cycle" through ammonia, then nitrates and finally settles in with nitrites.

I was going cuckoo over ammonia, but someone on this forum walked me through it.
He posted a graph that really made it all make sense
It's on the third page of the following post viewtopic.php?f=6&t=32014&hilit=Ammonia+Fix

Yep. Since your tank has only been running for two weeks, you are still establishing your beneficial bacteria. You'll likely see the ammonia fall and perhaps the nitrite rise before falling again.

The good news is you are showing nitrate. Unless you have nitrate in your tap water, that means you have both types of bacteria.

Does this chart posted by VeipaCray mean that as long as my chemistry number are:

Ammonia should be between 0 and 10ppm
Nitrite should be between 0 and 25ppm
Nitrate should be between 0 and 50ppm

I'm ok?

(btw, I am tracking the values but I don't know yet where I am at in the cycle)

No, it basically shows that initially, your ammonia numbers will spike and ultimately fall to 0.

The same with nitrite numbers.

Nitrate numbers will only be reduced by water changes.

Ultimately, you should see 0 for ammonia and nitrite, but that will not happen until you have both kinds of beneficial bacteria.

Any levels of ammonia and nitrite will be harmful to your turtle. If I were you, I would test daily right now and do water changes every time you seen even .25ppm of ammonia. That is the first "light green" indicator on the API Master Test kit. I know its a bother to change water possibly every day but that is the best way to keep your turtle healthy while your filter matures. After about 8 weeks you should have matured your filter to a point where your readings are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites. Also, try to keep you Nitrates between 20ppm and 40ppm at the high end - once again a water change will be in order to get the levels down again.

My filter is cycled (matured) and I still do a 65% water change to my 55 gallon turtle tank every week faithfully - I just don't want them to ever have to endure toxin.

Once your filter matures - I'm sure a large weekly water change is all you will have to do. Be sure to always use a dechlorinator when you do a water change and only rinse out your filter media in "old tank water" to avoid killing off your beneficial bacteria. One last thought, when you change the water - always try to get within a degree or two of the temp that you took out.

Good luck.